Posted in sewing, Style

Facing my doppelgänger: The dress form customization continues

wire mannequinsA few years ago I read an article reporting on a study whose results suggested that we are now experiencing a veritable epidemic of body image and consequent eating disorders among older women. The seriousness of it seemed a bit worrying, but the underlying message that it was shocking was a bit beyond the pale.

Imagine the shock! Women in their 70’s and 80’s concerned about their bodies! Concerned about how they look! OMG of course they care! I’m not quite to that age yet, but age does creep up even faster the older we get – or so it seems anyway. The truth is that, of course, excessive concern about body image and self-esteem that combine to result in disordered anything, is a problem. The fact that women continue to want to look good is to be expected. Then we (I) face reality: my body staring back at me in the form of that mannequin I’m hell bent on customizing.

So Gloria junior now has a shape to be filled out – my shape to be exact – yet there is much to be done. Here’s where I am to date.

I’ve actually gotten the go ahead from my Craftsy instructor, the incredibly knowledgeable Suzy Furrer, on my moulage on the second go round. She is just still slightly concerned that the high figure point might be a smidge too high, but I can go ahead and draft the sloper – my bodice block (I’ve done this and lowered the HFP 1/8 inch so I’ll see how that goes when I sew it up in royal blue cotton sateen with vents in the off chance I can actually wear it – more on that at another time, though). Before I get to the block, though, I’m using my moulage as the blueprint for my customized dress form (inspired by Mary Funt’s wonderful blog post on custom pattern drafting : https://cloningcouture.com/2016/07/11/custom-pattern-drafting-and-my-version-of-the-six-napoleon-dress/ ).

IMG_0714So, the first thing I did when approval finally came was insert a separating zipper in the back. My husband, my measurement partner, wished I had done it earlier. This way as I move forward with the stuffing, I can open it more easily. Then I had to make Gloria junior smaller to match the smallest part of my own torso – my under-bust. That’s why she now needs to be stuffed up again with the bits in the right place.

Next, I went to good old Fabricland in the basement of Honest Ed’s on Bloor Street West here in Toronto (If you don’t know about Honest Ed’s you’ve really missed out – what a crazy place!). I bought some batting and a number of shoulder pads, as well as the aforementioned cotton sateen that was BTW on sale: marked down from $20.00+ a metre to $7.00 a metre!

The fattest shoulder pads are now ensconced on the shoulders that had to be raised up. I now have a neck problem, though, which I’ll fix with a small round of batting and probably some duct tape. I need to re-establish the high neck point.

The other shoulder pads are now under Junior’s boobs that need more batting and support. The back, however, is nice and tight and exactly as it should look. It’s the front that I’m now working on.

When I have her as stuffed as possible within the confines of the moulage, I’ll need to figure out how to make a nice cover that hides everything underneath and gives me a great surface to contemplate my design and sewing projects. But back to that thing about body image.

If I never wanted to consider what my over-50 body is up to these days, I now have no choice in the matter. It’s a really humbling experience to see your own figure staring back at you, and it isn’t even quite finished i.e. completely stuffed. There is no hiding from what has shifted – what doesn’t exactly look like it did in that bikini on my honeymoon when I was 33.

It’s good to know, however, that I can laugh and accept myself for who I am. Fortunately, I’m of normal weight. That I’d be able to do something about. All that shifting downward? Not so much.

Let’s all remember what Betty Friedan told us at the beginning of the feminist movement: “Aging is not lost youth, but a new stage of opportunity and strength.”wine.jpg

Or maybe I’ll use a line a saw on a cocktail napkin as my mantra: “Age gets better with wine.”

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5 thoughts on “Facing my doppelgänger: The dress form customization continues

  1. Excellent work on your moulage. I had so much trouble with my neck and shoulder shape. I consider all that work as building pattern drafting sense and not wasted time (and tape!) I’ve now started on the darts and seamlines, and neckline classes and working out those exercises. Regarding body image, once I got over the surprise of seeing my now 60+ shape, I realized by sewing, I can emphasize my assets, and work with the newish changes. I wish anyone suffering due to poor body image could see how sewing brings not only joy in making something nice to wear, but you can become part of a wonderful sewing community! Thanks for the post.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks for the positive vibes, Donna! I’m now making up the sloper mock-up, then will do the sloper on poster board (after I get my husband to design & create pattern hooks for me!), then the knit sloper — then I’m going to register for Suzy’s creative darts and seams course. Necklines after that, then sleeves. Then I suppose I should learn to make a pant sloper! Eventually, I might be able to design a thing or two — that fits! Phew! And yes, these 60+ bodies need some getting used to! Cheers!

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  2. Wonderful job. Your hard work will pay off in making fitting so much easier. Properly fit garments make any size or shape body look better. I’ve made dresses for ladies who were square shaped (short and plump) who couldn’t believe how much better they looked in a garment which fit them properly. Thanks for the reference to me.

    Liked by 1 person

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